A Place to Party

Ayia Napa, (the very east of Southern Cyprus)

Ayia Napa, Ayia Napa.. Bo! You may not know it but Ayia Napa is a very famous party town. The summer home of the UK Garage scene.. No, this is not some architecture for automobiles association.. but a newer / ruder version of House music (think DJ Bobo, but with a brain). It is a close second to (and I suspect originally set-up as a rival to) Ibiza.

Beach Party

Nissi Beach, 3 kilometers from Ayia Napa, is the perfect way to start the day. A truly spectacular small double-bay, with fine golden sand and warm shallow blue sea.. picture perfect. There are sun beds, bars and restaurants and then at 3pm.. Boom! Boom! Boom!.. Uh-oh here comes the party!.. There are sound systems on the beach!

The musical offering of these sound systems is generally the latest “Toons” - which is new and popular dance music to those that don’t pay that kind of attention to the youth scene.

This is the time when the beach starts to cram with students or youth generally, all still with masses of hormones and clearly “on the pull”.. drinking and dancing (or wobbling about a bit) to the music whilst paddling in the sea.

So if you were looking for a family vacation it might be best to clear the area by this hour. But if you don’t want to beat ‘em, then join ‘em! Get on your party bikini and go a bit mental. You can get in a few alco-pops and dance till 7 or 8pm, then get a cab back to the center, grab a McDonalds and hit the town.

Out on the Town

The town itself is historically of a little interest, with a nice little monastery-in-a-hole (actually it is in a cave, according to the guide book) right at its heart and a quaint harbor with some nice restaurants to be found beside it… but that’s it, truly, the rest of the town has been obliterated by the tacky tourist and party scene.

The main stretch of Ayia Napa is like something out of a Hollywood B-movie film set, a real alcoholic Disney Land. Every bar / nightclub (and there are countless numbers of them) has some themed frontage to it.. like a cave, a castle or a ship.. each front door has some mini-skirted model type touting with flyers about DJs and discount drinks.

After of few of those drinks, and a little bit of cash dished out, the neon lights are bound to beckon a fantastic night out. If you think you can imagine it, think harder.. it is truly beyond imagination – it is an assault on your senses: bright, loud and all around. Can you keep it up until the sun rises above the beach?

All this kind of thing just might be your thing and you might want to get down with the youth that line (and lie on) the streets. If not, the only way to escape them is to leave town because they are too drunk to drive!

A Place for a Family Holiday

Protaras (the very east of Southern Cyprus)

Well not quite a quiet resort, but one that has a little bit of everything, even beauty!

On the eastern coast of southern Cyprus (there is not much of that so it should not be too hard to find) and just a few kilometers from Ayia Napa is the busy and quite recently developed resort of Protaras.

There six or seven smallish, overcrowded but none-the-less perfect beaches there. Most notably Fig Tree Bay, which is an idyllic fine-sand, shallow-watered beach which has a little island in the middle of the bay for that little bit of extra atmosphere. You could easily spend all day there and let the kids loose.

Package Holidays

Because of its newness it all looks quite modern and appealing. There are many, many hotels and apartments and most are built with an eye for architecture (but not always the same style of architecture).

These hotels mostly cater for package deal tourists and come in the 3 to 4 star range offering all of the mod-cons. And because of the numbers of tourists, you can expect all of the beach extras, jet skis, inflatable water sausages and the like.. and you will find a wide range of restaurants offering international cuisine.

What I mean by the above paragraph is that it will be difficult finding cheap accommodation in this town.. so be prepared to pay more!

The proximity of Protaras to Ayia Napa also add the extra options for days out.. the kids will be pleased to know that there is also Water World ‘the largest themed water park in Europe’ (water slides and pools and things with a Greek feel) in the Ayia Napa area , which is always something just a little different for them. You will also find diving schools and the island’s only bungee jumping locally.

A Place of Historical Interest.

Paphos (the very west of Cyprus)

Undoubtedly the heritage of Cyprus is buried in Paphos.. Birth place of Aphrodite, home to Saint Paul.. a thousand treasures from ancient Greek to Byzantine.

The name Paphos is the Greek name for the son of Pygmalion, the legendary Cypriot sculptor who falls in love with his womanly sculpture… Aphrodite brings the sculpture to life and they have Paphos together.. and eventually Paphos builds Paphos as a town with stone walls.

Civilisation

The town itself is, by far, the quaintest coastal town in the south of Cyprus and is centred around a little harbour with the gardens of fish restaurants lining the quayside of the traditionally brightly painted fishing boats. Very civilized!

Paphos has now been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, due to the importance it has played in world history and the wealth of architectural treasures that still remain there.

Although the beaches are not quite the golden promise of those found in the east (they are greyish sand and stones) the low-lying scenery, surrounded by banana plantations and backed by the Troodos mountain range, has an attractive and open quality to it.

There are also all of the tourist amenities on this part of the island for a great family holiday as well (e.g. the Aphrodite Water Park)… just not as many as in the Protaras region of the east of the island. But in general, it could be said that Paphos is more popular with the middle-aged tourist, or maybe I am just judging that by the fact that there are three golf clubs here!

A Place to Relax

Polis (north west coast of southern Cyprus)

Polis is still not frequented by hoards of western European tourists and so that may be a blessing in your eyes. Then again, it isn’t very big either!

Polis is a fishing village which has some good restaurants and is popular with Cypriots who live and work in Nicosia (the capital). There is probably nothing here that you have never seen before, it is just a town on the coast, and its character is just ‘typical Cyprus’ but it is difficult to find ‘typical’ on an island that has in many places either been modernized to the fancies of international tourists or concreted over for real estate development.

So I recommend Polis! Near by, there is also the Akamas peninsular. Most of this peninsular is designated as a nature reserve and so nice long and leisurely walks can be taken in order to attain some inner tranquillity.

Aphrodite Naked

The most famous attraction here is the Baths of Aphrodite. Aphrodite was obviously very busy on this island, but when she finished her day, legend has it, she used to take her bath in the cool small pool here. She was surrounded by an idyllic landscape and sweet smelling flowers.

Legend also has it that Adonis passed by these pools, while hunting in the forest, and stopped for a drink. Much to his surprise, he was struck by the sight of the naked Goddess Aphrodite bathing in the clear waters. They fell in love instantly.

You too can bathe in the very same pools and enjoy a magnificent view of the Bay of Polis. So all-in-all this is a trip worth making.

A Place for the Curious

Famagusta (the east coast of northern Cyprus)

If you walked in to the southern suburbs of this town, knowing nothing about the history, your first question would surely be “What the *@#% happened here??”. Famagusta is a truly bizarre, living tale of what happened in 1974... The Turkish occupation.

Unfortunately you are not likely to simply walk into Varosha (the name of the previously mostly Greek owned resort town that lies in these suburbs) due to the fact that is sealed of by barbed wire.. officially now in the Green Line district of Cyprus, but previously sealed off by the Turkish army. But it is visible from a distance at vantage points along the seaside in the northern parts of the town.

Back to 70’s

This is a shame really, because this could be one amazing tourist attraction: A ghost town from the 70’s.. complete with boutiques still stocked with 70’s clothes, Hotels still decked with 70’s décor and architecture as ugly as any 70’s concrete carbuncle can get.

A brief history of these events explains that in August 1974 a large number of Turkish tanks headed towards Famagusta and the Greek residents, along with many holidaying tourists, fled the town rather quickly. The story goes that in the Varosha suburb meals are left half eaten, lamps left alight and all doors are left unlocked.

Before being placed into the hands of the United Nations this area was commandeered for the Turkish troops.. The troops living in the abandoned hotels and the Generals living in the luxury villas.

Back to the Middle Ages

Famagusta is also a well renowned site historical interest, as you can image if you consider that is a very good deep-water port. The port where all comers from the east arrived.

Seven hundred years ago, Famagusta was the richest city on earth. It was famed throughout the world for its mercantile magnificence. Famagusta's economy boomed under the rule of the Venetians, who used it as part of their trade route that spanned the globe from north-western Europe to India. Even in little old England ‘The Bard‘ Shakespeare used it as the setting for Othello.

So here you will find a good deal of historical interest, especially dating from the middle ages.

A Place for Romans

Salamis (north of Famagusta)

Salamis was once the most important ancient city in Cyprus. It is still set (all be it as simply ruins today) over a site one kilometer long which has a sandy beach along its entire length. Salamis is a great place for a day out in northern Cyprus.

Legend has it that Salamis was originally founded by a hero from the Trojan War. The city went on to flourish and was soon minting its own coinage.

The citizens of Salamis resisted the Persian invasion during the fifth century B.C. and provided help to Alexander the Great. Eventually however, the Egyptian king Ptolemy I in 295 B.C. launched an offensive and the last king of Salamis decided to commit suicide and burn his palace to the ground rather than submit to them.

A Place for Solitude

The Karpaz (the pan handle of the North East of Cyprus)

Nobody can beat a long empty beach if they are looking for that long needed conversation with themselves - or with a lover! And such places can be found in the north of Cyprus.

Heading north of Famagusta or east of Kyrenia, towards the long-sticky-out bit of the island that looks a bit like a pan handle (or maybe the neck of guitar if you prefer music to cooking) you enter a territory of countless beaches. Not only that.. there are more beaches than people. Well OK, this statement could not be the actual truth… but lets say more square metres of beach than people that live in Northern Cyprus.

The Wild Life

But maybe not donkey’s! There are a large number of wild donkeys which roam the Karpaz. Generally these are black, but they are sometimes ginger. However, be cautious! Donkeys are not the best natured of creatures and these are reputably the most dangerous animals on the island and you should approach them with respect.

Watch out for turtles too! The long sandy beaches of the Karpaz have been carefully selected by this discerning population with shells on their backs. One of the few good locations in the Mediterranean where these most ancient of sea creatures can still come and lay their eggs every year.

No need for names of destinations here.. just the Karpaz in general, you’ll find somewhere if you head there. And if the beach that you find is not quite the right shape and size, then head a little further to find another one. And if there happens to be somebody on that stretch of sand, then head a little further and find another one. You’re quite likely to find your own personal spot!

Yes, here there only a tiny villages along the whole peninsular, but the area is adorned with ancient churches, monasteries, basilicas and the remains of the Roman city of Karpasia from which the peninsular derives its name.

A Place to Stay

The nicest town in the north, and therefore a contender for the nicest Cypriot town, is Kyrenia. Kyrenia is quite a large town with a splendid little harbour.. it is smaller than Famagusta and in the shadow of the mountains it manages to maintain the air of an even smaller place.

On the harbour front is a castle with massive defences. It surrounds a mixture of buildings from previous centuries and covers the site where a Roman fort once stood. It is home to many historical artefacts and is the current resting-place of the world's oldest known recovered shipwreck which can be viewed there.

A Place to Breathe

Lefkara (the mountains in the middle of the island)

730m above sea level, in the foothills of the Troodos Mountains, the small town of Lefkara is pretty. The height brings means choler air and so this makes for a perfect day trip in order to escape the crippling heat of the lowlands in mid-summer. It takes only 1hr 30mins from Paphos or 45mins from Larnaca if you hire a car.

The narrow streets packed with more a traditional style of old houses make it picturesque, but Lefkara is most famous as the home of Cyprus lace. Most famously, Leonardo da Vinci bought the cover for the Cathedral in Milan here. You will find lace in nearly every shop that is found here and most of it is still made locally. Women sit in the narrow streets making lace in intricate patterns, as they have done for hundreds of years.

A Place for Culture

Nicosia (the middle of the island)

Nicosia is the land-locked capital of Cyprus. It is both the political and commercial capital, which has always struck me as strange. Imaging all those poor Cypriots who have to live and work there.. Cyprus is very hot in the summer!

Nicosia, like many capitals, is a place to visit if you are one of those people who like people (cultural events and people watching) because where there is people, there is action. And as capitals go, it is not ugly or too big and it can be very interesting just to walk the streets.

Of course, you will find museums and shops.. But most interesting here is that here the split in the island is very visible. Nicosia is split in two and it is possible for tourists to walk from one side to another. Effectively, two countries in one short walk.

Anyway, Nicosia is worth a visit if you want to drag yourself away from the beach. I would say that it is a perfect plan for a day trip on a rainy day, but since you are very unlikely to fall victim to a rainy day in Cyprus then such an opportunity will probably not arise. The advise that I will offer though is not to go there in the middle of summer.

A Place to Avoid

The South Coast

In terms of good beaches virtually the whole of the south coast between Ayia Napa and Limassol is rather disappointing.. and if you stick in this area for your whole holiday you will leave Cyprus being not all that impressed with the place.

Both Limassol and Larnaca are in this region and both are busy ports, on this stretch are also the two British naval bases and so you end up watching the huge ships arriving and leaving, not being quite sure how much diesel fuel you might be swimming in.

Neither of these towns are that impressive in terms of architechture either, with just a few churches/cathedrals to potter about. Limassol has quite a few tourist attractions and Larnaca is home to some pretty impressive 5 star hotels… but the beaches just don’t cut the proper image.

The one real spark of interest here is the Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque, which is only a small mosque.. but very important because it is actually the third most holy Muslim site in the world. It is the death place of the prophet Mohammed’s mother. Very curious, I thought, that it should be stuck here on the Christian side of the island.. and it is literally stuck on a salt lake at the end of the runway of Larnaca airport, so it seems no sensitivity has really been paid to it.